Machapuchare (Fishtail): Why Nepal's Holy Mountain Remains Unclimbed

• Height6,993 m (22,943 ft)
• NameMachha = fish, puchhre = tail (Nepali)
• LocationAnnapurna range, about 25 km north of Pokhara
• Closest attempt1957, about 46 m below the summit
• Climbing statusClosed, no permit issued since 1957
• Closest trek viewMachhapuchhre Base Camp, about 3,700 m

Machhapuchre/ Fishtail is one of Nepal's most strikingly beautiful mountains, located in the Annapurna massif in Gandaki Province. The summit stands about 25 km north of Pokhara in a straight line, which is why it fills the skyline above Phewa Lake.

The mountain has a double summit that looks like a fish’s tail from the west, and that is where the name comes from. In Nepali, machha means fish and puchhre means tail.

Like the rest of the Himalaya, Machhapuchre was raised by the collision of the Indian plate with the Eurasian plate. That collision pushed old seabed rock high into the range, which is why marine fossils turn up in parts of the Annapurna region, most famously the ammonite shaligram stones of the Kali Gandaki valley.

It has an altitude of 6,993 m (22,943 ft). Its steep, sharp-edged pyramid makes it one of the most recognisable peaks in Nepal, even though it is far from the highest.

Naturally, mountaineers are keen to be on the summit of this work of art. Unfortunately for them, the summit has been off-limits since the famous 1957 expedition. No climbing permit has been issued since then, and a Nepali Times account dates the formal closure to 1965. The summit is untouched. The slopes below it are not. Thousands of trekkers a year pass through Machhapuchhre Base Camp on the way to Annapurna Base Camp, and the quieter Machhapuchhre Model Trek follows the ridges and villages to the south of the peak.

Why Is Machhapuchre Closed to Climbers?

Four reasons come up again and again:

1. Religious significance 

2. Protect the Himalayan ecosystem

3. Avoid conflict between climbers and the locals

4. Very dangerous

Although there are four reasons mentioned above, the main reason for forbidding the climbing Machhapuchre is the religious significance. The mystical Machhapuchre holds great religious importance in the local Gurung community residing in the Annapurna region and Hindus.

The mountain is considered one of the homes of the lord Shiva himself, which is why the people around believe it can not be summited. They highly believe that the place should be left holy and untouched by humans. Likewise, local inhabitants of Kaski and Parbat accept Machhapuchre’s two peaks as a representation of the two brothers, Nara and Narayana. Nara and Narayana are the incarnations of God Vishnu, which links another religious sense to Mt. Machhapuchre.

Another religious link is a glacial lake below the mountain that locals call Tin Shir (three heads in English). Local accounts say it was a Hindu pilgrimage site during the Janai Purnima festival, and that pilgrims stopped going after the Seti River flash flood of 5 May 2012. That flood, set off by a landslide near Machhapuchre, left about 72 people dead or missing downstream at Kharapani and Sadal.

The local Gurung people suggest that the ban on climbing the Machhapuchre should be maintained as it has an impact on their religious and cultural reliance and practices, so much so that the Gurung of the southern side of Machhapuchre know the mountain by a different name altogether, Katasunkli, which is often translated as snowy fish mouth. To this date, Gurung herders have faith in Machapuchre to protect them from possible disasters and are often seen praying and giving offerings to the mountain. Many of their customs connect back to the mountain. Gurung scholars do not all agree, though. The geographer Harka Gurung argued the peak is not sacred to the Gurungs at its base, while culture experts in Pokhara opposed opening it in 2018. So far the government has sided with keeping the ban.

Moving on to the next reason, that is protecting the Himalayan ecosystem. With the increase in mountain enthusiasts in past years, the expedition rate has gone up. Economically, the local economy can be benefited, but this can not be favourable for the mountain's ecosystem. 

People knowingly or unknowingly have degraded the conditions of mountains while climbing them. Despite all the preaches on responsible trekking, only a few seem to practice what they preach. One argument for the ban is that it keeps the mountain in its natural state as a ‘virgin’ peak. Machhapuchre also sits inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, which the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation (now NTNC) launched in 1986.

The topic of avoiding conflict between the climbers and the locals arises from the attempted climb to Mt. Machhapuchre in 1957 A.D. The British climbing team led by Jimmy Roberts with two other mountaineers, namely Wilfrid Noyce and A.D.M Cox, climbed high on the north ridge, but they did not step on the summit itself. King Mahendra had granted the permit on the condition that the team would not set foot on the top, and they agreed. Noyce and Cox turned back about 150 ft (46 m) below the summit, at roughly 6,947 m. Noyce told the story in his 1958 book, Climbing the Fish’s Tail.

Some do say they only made their way back due to extremely bad weather and technical difficulties and had nothing to do with the king’s request. Whatever the reason, the locals did not seem very pleased with their ascent. This made the government feel there could be possible bitterness and conflict between the locals, climbers, and government in the future if the ban is lifted. Some writers say Roberts himself later favoured keeping the mountain closed. No document we found confirms that, so treat it as hearsay.

Since Machhapuchre is banned from climbing, you might think, how one could say for sure how dangerous it is? 

Well, the 1957 team turned back about 46 m below the summit, and the Mount Everest Foundation’s account says they had reached hard, polished ice on the final ridge. In addition, the Seti River Valley and Mardi River Valley drain Mt. Machhapuchre, making the climb very risky, especially during the months of monsoon. The southern face of Machhapuchre receives heavy precipitation (rainfall) during the rainy season, increasing the probability of all sorts of mountain hazards. 

Climbers who know the peak describe it as steep and technical on every side. With only one documented attempt, there is almost no route information for different seasons. Anyone allowed to try would be climbing into the unknown, which adds a safety argument to the religious one.

Also Read: Dhaulagiri South Face

Has anyone ever climbed to the summit of Machhapuchre/Fishtail?

Officially, no. After 1957 the government did not give any permit to attempt Machhapuchre. The one persistent story concerns the New Zealand climber Bill Denz, known for bold, unofficial climbs. A footnote by Elizabeth Hawley in the Himalayan Database records only a rumour that he reached the summit by the north ridge and northeast face, and sources disagree on the year. Denz could never confirm it. He died in an avalanche on Makalu (8,485 m) in October 1983.

The 1957 expedition remains the only documented attempt on Machhapuchre.

Machhapuchre Timeline: 1957 to 2026

Will the ban ever be lifted from climbing Mt. Machhapuchre?

Local governments that rely on tourism have pushed to lift the ban. In June 2018 the Machhapuchhre Rural Municipality proposed opening the peak from the next fiscal year. Culture experts in Pokhara and the Pokhara Tourism Council opposed it, and one provincial lawmaker asked for more discussion before any decision. Supporters point out that other mountains with religious meaning are open to climbers, such as Everest (8,848.86 m), Annapurna I (8,091 m) and Ganesh I (7,422 m).

As of October 2026 the ban still stands and no permit has been issued. Until that changes, you can trek around Machhapuchre and climb other mountains instead. Nepal has 1,310 peaks above 6,000 m, more than 400 of them open for climbing, and 97 remote peaks in Karnali and Sudurpaschim carry no royalty until mid-2027 (see Nepal’s 97 free peaks and our peak permit fees).

Where to See Machhapuchre

You do not need to climb it to feel its pull. These are the main viewpoints, from the lakeside in Pokhara to the high camps. Bars show the altitude of each viewpoint on a 0 to 5,000 m scale.

Here are things to do around Machhapuchre:

1. Go trekking to Machhapuchre Base Camp. It lies at about 3,700 m (12,139 ft) on the Annapurna Base Camp trek and gives one of the closest views of the mountain.

2. Get to know the lifestyle of the local Gurung people living near the Machhapuchre region and know about mystical tales of Machhapuchre Himal.

3. Behold sight of other magnificent snow-capped mountains, namely Annapurna I (8,091 m / 26,545 ft), Gangapurna (7,455 m / 24,459 ft) and Hiunchuli (6,441 m / 21,132 ft).

Machapuchare: FAQs