Nar Phu Valley Trek

Autumn (late September to November) and spring (March to May) are the two seasons for the Nar Phu Valley Trek, because both passes need stable, snow-free weather. Autumn brings the clearest skies after the monsoon and is the most reliable time to cross the Kang La and Thorong La. Spring is warmer lower down with rhododendron in bloom, though the high valley stays cold.

Winter (December to February) brings heavy snow that can close both passes, so it suits only experienced, well-equipped trekkers. The summer monsoon (June to August) brings rain and landslides to the approach, although Nar Phu sits in a partial rain shadow behind the Annapurnas. The season cards above show the month-by-month picture.

Nar Phu is a restricted area, so it needs a special permit on top of the standard Annapurna permit, and by law you must travel through a registered agency in a group of at least two trekkers with a licensed guide. The Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit costs around USD 100 per person per week in the high season (September to November) and about USD 75 per week the rest of the year.

You also need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), issued by the National Trust for Nature Conservation, at NPR 3,000 for non-SAARC nationals and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals. Swotah arranges all the paperwork once you send a passport copy and photos, so bring a passport valid for at least six months. Permit rules and fees are set by the government and can change, so we confirm current rates before departure.

Accommodation on the Nar Phu Valley Trek is simpler than on the main Annapurna Circuit, because the restricted valley sees few trekkers. Phu and Nar have a handful of basic teahouses, and one classic night is spent at the gompa-run lodge at Nar Phedi. Expect twin rooms, shared bathrooms and limited heating in the high villages.

On the circuit side, Manang, Yak Kharka and Muktinath have better-equipped lodges with more menu choice and hot showers. Kathmandu and Pokhara offer comfortable hotels. A four-season sleeping bag is important for the cold nights in Nar, Phu and the high camps before the Thorong La.

Food on the Nar Phu Valley Trek is teahouse cooking, and dal bhat (lentil soup, rice and vegetable curry) is the staple because lodges refill it and it carries you through long days. In the restricted valley the menu narrows to dal bhat, Tibetan bread, noodles and potatoes, while the circuit side adds momos, pancakes and Thakali sets.

Swotah includes three meals a day on the trek. For water, aim for 3 to 4 litres a day to help prevent altitude sickness, and treat it rather than drinking untreated stream water: boiled water is sold at lodges, and purification tablets, a filter or a UV pen all work. Carry a reusable bottle, and expect fewer resupply points than on a standard circuit.

The Nar Phu Valley Trek starts with a drive from Kathmandu to Jagat (1,330 m) in the Marsyangdi valley, then follows the Annapurna Circuit trail to Koto, where the restricted valley branches north. The approach uses the same road head as the main circuit.

The trek finishes on the far side at Jomsom (2,743 m), from where you drive or take a short flight to Pokhara, then continue to Kathmandu by tourist coach or domestic flight. Swotah runs the road legs by private jeep or coach. Mountain roads here are slow and exposed to monsoon landslides, so the schedule allows realistic drive times.

Nar and Phu are two villages in a hidden valley north of Koto, near the Tibet border, opened to foreign trekkers only in 2002. Their Tibetan-Buddhist culture survives in gompas, chortens, mani walls and stone houses, and the people herd yaks and grow barley much as they have for centuries.

The trail between them crosses narrow canyons, juniper forest and high grazing pastures, with views of Himlung Himal (7,126 m), Gangapurna and the Annapurna massif. The Kang La (4,620 m) connects Nar back to the main circuit at Ngawal. Because the valley is restricted and remote, you see far fewer trekkers here than on the standard Annapurna routes, which is the main reason people choose it.

A licensed guide is mandatory on the Nar Phu Valley Trek, both because Nepal requires one as of 2023 and because the restricted-area permit is issued only to guided groups of at least two. Swotah's guides hold Ministry of Tourism licences, have Nepal Mountaineering Association training, and know the Kang La and Thorong La crossings.

A porter is optional but makes the high, remote days safer and lighter. One porter carries 20 to 25 kg, and we cap loads at that weight because porters face the same altitude as trekkers. Swotah provides a free duffel for the porter, and you walk with a 25 to 30 L daypack holding water, snacks, documents and a warm layer.

Mobile coverage is patchy on the Nar Phu Valley Trek, more so than on the main circuit, because the restricted valley is remote. Nepal Telecom (NTC) gives the best chance of a signal at altitude, and Ncell works lower down; both sell tourist SIMs with 4G for about USD 1 to 6, and Swotah provides a SIM, though expect dead spots around Phu and the passes.

Wi-Fi exists at some lodges on the circuit side for a small charge but is rare in Nar and Phu. You can charge a phone or camera at lodges for a few rupees per device, with cost and reliability falling the higher and more remote you go, so a power bank or solar charger is worth carrying.

Responsible trekking matters more in Nar Phu than on busier trails, because the restricted valley is fragile and rarely visited. Carry a reusable bottle and treat your own water, pack out all waste, ask before photographing people or gompa interiors, and follow your guide's lead at chortens and mani walls.

Tipping is customary though not mandatory: a common guideline is around 15% of the trip cost, shared among the guide, porter and driver who work the season. Tips go directly to the workforce that makes the trek run. Booking with a registered operator like Swotah also means the restricted-area permit, staff insurance and fair porter loads are handled properly.