Nepal's monsoon runs from about mid-June to early October, and in July and August the best treks are in the rain shadow north of the main Himalaya: Upper Mustang, Nar Phu, Upper Dolpo, the Limi Valley in Humla and the high half of the Annapurna Circuit. Pokhara gets about 940 mm of rain in an average July, while Jomsom, the gateway to Mustang, gets under 50 mm. All of these except the Annapurna Circuit are restricted areas: since 22 March 2026 one trekker can get the permit alone, but a licensed guide is still required. The trails stay dry, the roads and flights on the way in do not, so plan a buffer day or two.
- MonsoonMid-June to early October
- Wettest monthJuly
- Driest treksUpper Mustang, Nar Phu, Upper Dolpo
- July rainPokhara about 940 mm, Jomsom under 50 mm
- Upper Mustang permitUSD 50 a day plus ACAP
- GuideRequired in every restricted area
- Weak pointFlights and roads on the way in
The monsoon, which Nepal's Department of Hydrology and Meteorology dates from a normal onset on 13 June to a normal withdrawal on 2 October, is Nepal's quietest trekking season, but it is the best time of year for one group of trails: the rain-shadow treks. Pokhara averages about 940 mm of rain in July, while Jomsom, the gateway to Upper Mustang, averages under 50 mm (1991 to 2020 station averages), because the high Himalaya wrings the moisture out of the monsoon clouds before they reach the valley behind. The result is dry, clear and almost leech-free trekking in Upper Mustang, Upper Dolpo and Nar Phu while the rest of the country is under cloud, and since 22 March 2026 a single trekker can get the restricted-area permit alone, though a licensed guide is still required. This guide explains why rain-shadow treks stay dry, the best routes for July and August, what to expect, and the permits you need. We updated it after the 2026 season, so it works for planning July and August 2027.
Why do rain-shadow treks stay dry in the monsoon?
A rain-shadow trek is a route in the arid belt behind the main Himalayan range, where the monsoon releases its rain on the southern slopes before the clouds can cross the peaks. The Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu massifs act as an 8,000-metre wall, so the valleys directly north (Upper Mustang, Upper Dolpo, Nar Phu and the upper Manang corridor) sit in a desert climate. Daytime skies are often clear, mornings are reliably bright, and the trails carry almost no leeches, the single biggest complaint about monsoon trekking in the lower hills. The trade-off is geography: you reach these valleys through wetter lowlands, so the journey in and out crosses the monsoon before the trek itself stays dry.
How dry is the rain shadow? The numbers
The difference between the two sides of the Annapurna range is bigger than most people expect. Lumle, a weather station in the hills just west of Pokhara, usually records the most rain in Nepal in July, while Jomsom, a short flight to the north behind the mountains, usually records the least. The figures below are the Department of Hydrology and Meteorology's July totals for recent years, set against Pokhara's long-term July average.
| Station | July rain | Scale |
|---|---|---|
| Lumle (near Pokhara), July 2025 | 1,052 mm | |
| Pokhara, average July (1991 to 2020) | about 940 mm | |
| Jomsom, July 2024 | 92 mm | |
| Jomsom, July 2025 | 29 mm |
Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Upper Mustang, is drier still, with research on the region putting its yearly total below about 160 mm. Dolpo has no long-running public station series we could find, so treat its numbers as "dry beyond the high passes, showery on the approach". Jomsom's own July total swings from year to year (92 mm in 2024, 29 mm in 2025), so pack a light shell even in the rain shadow.
Upper Mustang: the classic monsoon trek
Upper Mustang is the most popular rain-shadow trek and the easiest to reach, a 10 to 16 day route into the former Buddhist Kingdom of Lo north of Kagbeni. The landscape is high desert: ochre and grey eroded cliffs, walled fields, cave monasteries and the medieval walled city of Lo Manthang at 3,840 m. July and August bring warm days, clear skies and the green of irrigated barley against the bare hills. The trek is graded moderate, with no technical climbing, and starts from a flight or drive to Jomsom rather than the weather-prone Lukla. Jomsom flights from Pokhara can still be held by cloud, and the Beni to Jomsom road gets monsoon landslides, so keep a spare day at each end. Our 10-day Upper Mustang trek runs from USD 1,600 and the longer 16-day Upper Mustang Trek from USD 2,399 per person on group departures. For the fees and the single-trekker rule, see our Upper Mustang permit guide.
Upper Dolpo: Nepal's remote rain-shadow wilderness
Upper Dolpo is the wildest of the rain-shadow treks, a 20 to 26 day expedition behind the Dhaulagiri massif into a Tibetan-Buddhist region of high passes and turquoise Phoksundo Lake. The area is so dry and remote that it is prime snow-leopard habitat, and the trek crosses several passes above 5,000 m, so it suits experienced trekkers with time to spare. Summer and early autumn are the main windows when the high passes are free of snow. Dolpo is not dry all the way, though. The approach through Juphal and Dunai gets monsoon showers, and the Nepalgunj to Juphal flights are often delayed by cloud, so build in two buffer days. The driest walking is beyond the Kang La. We run it as the Upper Dolpo Trek (26 days, from USD 3,650), the Lower Dolpo Trek (19 days, from USD 3,895), and the wildlife-focused Snow Leopard Trek in Dolpo (20 days, from USD 3,800), which follows the Lower Dolpo route. For the Tarap side of Dolpo, see our Dho Tarap guide.
Nar Phu Valley: hidden valleys behind Annapurna
Nar Phu is a restricted valley system tucked behind the Annapurna massif, a 14 to 19 day route through two medieval Tibetan villages, Nar and Phu, that few trekkers reach. It combines the dry rain-shadow climate with the option to cross the Kang La (5,320 m) and join the Annapurna Circuit, so a monsoon Nar Phu trek can continue over the high, dry Manang-to-Muktinath stretch. The valley sees a fraction of the Annapurna foot traffic, which makes it one of the quietest dry-season options. The drive in follows the Marsyangdi valley from Besisahar, which is wet and landslide-prone in July and August, so allow for delays on the road. Our Nar Phu Valley Trek is 19 days, from USD 2,150 per person.
Other monsoon-friendly options
A few more routes work in the monsoon, some without committing to a full restricted-area expedition. The Manang-to-Muktinath section of the Annapurna Circuit (14 days, from USD 1,230) sits in the same rain shadow, so the high half of the circuit (from Manang over the Thorong La to Muktinath and Jomsom) stays far drier than the green lower approach. Short treks around Lower Mustang and Jomsom also offer dry days and mountain views on a tighter schedule. Far to the north-west, the Humla Limi Valley Trek (20 days, from USD 3,890) is another rain-shadow route, reached by flights to Simikot and topping out at the Nyalu La, about 4,940 m. The lower, southern trails, including the Manaslu approach and most of the Everest and Langtang routes, are wet and leech-heavy in July and August, so they are better left for autumn. If you do go, our guides to the Annapurna Circuit in July and the Everest Base Camp trek in July cover what to expect.
What to expect trekking Nepal in the monsoon
Monsoon trekking trades crowds for a few logistics. The advantages are real: dry trails, clear mornings, almost no leeches, very few other trekkers, lower lodge and flight prices, and lush green scenery on the approach. The drawbacks are mostly about getting in and out, since flights to mountain airstrips can be delayed by cloud, and afternoon build-up can close the views by mid-day. Rain-shadow treks solve the cloud problem once you are on the trail, because the dry air clears fast, but getting there still depends on Jomsom, Juphal or Simikot flights or on monsoon roads. Plan an early daily start to catch the clearest skies, pack a light waterproof for the approach, and build a spare day into any itinerary that depends on a mountain flight.
Permits and the 2026 solo rule
Every trek above except the Annapurna Circuit runs through a restricted area, so each needs a Restricted Area Permit plus the relevant conservation area or national park permit, and a licensed guide from a registered agency is mandatory. The 2026 news is that on 22 March 2026 Nepal removed the two-trekker minimum across all 15 restricted-area districts, so a solo traveller can now obtain these permits individually, though the guide rule still applies. The fees for July and August are below. The same change applies to the Manaslu Circuit, so the whole restricted-area set opened up this year. A registered agency arranges every permit and confirms the current fees at booking.
| Trek | Permits | Fee in July and August |
|---|---|---|
| Upper Mustang | Restricted area permit + ACAP | USD 50 per day inside the zone (from Kagbeni), plus NPR 3,000 (about USD 20) |
| Nar Phu | Restricted area permit + ACAP | USD 75 per week, then USD 15 per day (USD 100 per week from September to November), plus NPR 3,000 |
| Upper Dolpo | Restricted area permit + Shey Phoksundo National Park | USD 500 for the first 10 days, then USD 50 per day, plus NPR 3,000 |
| Lower Dolpo | Restricted area permit + Shey Phoksundo National Park | USD 20 per week, plus NPR 3,000 |
| Humla (Limi Valley) | Restricted area permit | USD 50 for the first week, then USD 10 per day |
| Annapurna Circuit | ACAP + TIMS | NPR 3,000 + NPR 2,000 (about USD 20 + 13) |
The Upper Mustang daily rate replaced the old flat USD 500 for 10 days after a cabinet decision on 18 November 2025, but some printed fee schedules still show the old figure, so confirm the amount with your agency. Our Nepal permits guide and Upper Mustang permit costs have the full detail.
Best monsoon treks at a glance
| Trek | Region | Our trip | Rain in July (rough guide) | Permit | From, per person |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Mustang | North of Annapurna | 10 or 16 days | Very low (Jomsom 29 to 92 mm in recent Julys) | Restricted | USD 1,600 / 2,399 |
| Nar Phu Valley | Behind Annapurna | 19 days | Low in the valley, wet on the drive in | Restricted | USD 2,150 |
| Upper Dolpo | Behind Dhaulagiri | 26 days | Low beyond Kang La, showers on the Juphal approach | Restricted | USD 3,650 |
| Lower Dolpo | Behind Dhaulagiri | 19 days | Mixed | Restricted | USD 3,895 |
| Humla Limi Valley | Far north-west | 20 days | Low | Restricted | USD 3,890 |
| Annapurna Circuit (high half) | Manang to Muktinath | 14 days (whole circuit) | Low above Manang, wet below | ACAP + TIMS | USD 1,230 |
Prices are the lowest group departure shown on each trip page in October 2026. Private trips cost more.
What the 2026 monsoon taught us
The 2025 monsoon was the longest on record, running from 29 May to 10 October by the weather department's count, and 2026 brought the kind of disruption that makes buffer days worth having. On 26 August a rock and ice avalanche below Langtang Lirung sent a flood down the Bhote Koshi and Trishuli in Rasuwa, closing the Langtang roads until the valley reopened from Thulo Syabru on 22 October. Four days later, on 30 August, the Krishnabhir landslide cut the Prithvi Highway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, the main road towards Jomsom, until a temporary track opened on 17 September. On 11 October a smaller flash flood hit the Budhi Gandaki on the Manaslu side. None of these happened inside the rain-shadow valleys, but two of them cut the roads and rivers that trekkers use to get near them, which is the usual monsoon risk. Our 2026 flood update has the dated details.
Plan your monsoon trek
Monsoon is the season to trek Nepal's dry north while the famous trails are wet and crowded, and the single-trekker permit rule from March 2026 makes the restricted rain-shadow routes easier to join than ever. Swotah arranges the permits, pairs you with a licensed guide, and times the itinerary around the clearest mountain weather. Browse the Upper Mustang, Nar Phu Valley and Upper Dolpo treks, or contact our team for a July or August departure with every permit included.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the monsoon in Nepal?
Usually from about mid-June to early October. The weather department's normal onset date is 13 June and its normal withdrawal date is 2 October, but years vary: the 2025 monsoon ran from 29 May to 10 October, the longest on record. July is the wettest month.
Is Upper Mustang really dry in July?
Mostly, yes. Jomsom recorded 29 mm in July 2025, while Lumle near Pokhara recorded 1,052 mm in the same month. Lo Manthang is drier still. Short showers do happen, so carry a light waterproof.
Can I trek the rain-shadow routes solo?
You can hold the permit alone since 22 March 2026, when Nepal dropped the two-trekker minimum for restricted areas, but a licensed guide from a registered agency is still mandatory, so you never walk entirely alone.
How do I get to Upper Mustang in the monsoon?
By the Pokhara to Jomsom flight, which can be delayed by cloud, or by jeep through Beni, where the road gets monsoon landslides. Either way, keep a spare day at each end of the trek.
How much does the Upper Mustang permit cost?
USD 50 per person per day inside the restricted zone from Kagbeni, plus the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit of NPR 3,000 (about USD 20). Ten days in the zone comes to about USD 520 in permits.
Related Reading
